RIVER TRAMPING
‘The river flows, flows to the sea
Wherever that river flows
is where I want to be
Flow river flow….’
The Byrds – Ballad of Easy Rider
I had never thought about River Tramping until I met the Dorset River Tramp. Walking the Stour from the Source at Six Wells Valley to Christchurch is a sixty four mile tramp down the Stour Valley from the margins of Selwood Forest to the sea. In times past it was a seasonal way of life, sleeping rough in Bender Tents (made of hazel rods and canvas) hidden in woodland copses flanking the river to avoid trespassing laws and poaching fish from the rivers. Often highly skilled at basket making and willow weaving, a river tramp could earn a living from making clothes pegs and chair mending, tinkering and grinding (sharpening tools, knives and repairing pots and pans) as well as offering farmers seasonal labour. Christchurch and the surrounding areas were home to some of the largest gypsy encampments in the south of England in the 19th and early 20th Centuries.
The Dorset River Tramp that I met was a man of letters - channelling Arnold’s scholar gypsy - with eyes as blue as robin’s eggs. He carried a hazel rod which he was washing in the river and said was his ‘Tapping Tool’. ‘What are you tapping?’ I asked. ‘Why the oaks of course.’ This was how I learned the true meaning of ‘Knock on Wood’. The first knock was to awaken the tree spirit to ask the tree for a favour, the second knock was to say thanks. He told me that forest rivers, like parts of the Stour, flowing through woodland were the blood vessels of the land connecting sacred trees in a wetland network. The moving water washed the roots and a sacred grove of river bank trees was far more potent than a landlocked grove. He spoke of ‘Water Lore’ and how tree-tapping was combined with river work and for spell-binding. ‘Lookout for Dippers and Kingfishers’ he said, as he loped off into the Greenwood like a man who knew where he was going. I thought of Turner’s lights across Stourhead gardens and Constable’s river bank at Gillingham, the Stour’s inspiration flows on down the generations, ‘touch wood’.