When
war broke out, many animal owners were unable to care for their pets and
they ended up in the street. Other owners were killed or had fled the
country and their dogs, cats and other pets were abandoned. Those
that survived best were the mongrels. In the aftermath of war, you
never saw pedigree dogs: the French poodles, Chihuahuas and Lhasa
Apsos. They were war’s early victims, too far away from their
ancestral stock to live alone for very long, too slow and small to
gain advantage in the race for scraps of food. During and after the
war, the police organized hunts to cull the survivors, but, many
years later, the crafty and the hardy still roamed the streets of the
towns and cities. Some of them were heroes. One of these in Mostar,
Heki, was a footsore mongrel who hung about in the old town begging
food from cafés and passers-by. He had four separate pieces of
shrapnel in his body, one of them lodged in his brain. He limped
around and somehow survived. His home was the Ruza; the shelled ruins
of a tourist hotel constructed in the 1970’s, across a tributary
that falls into the Neretva River close to the Old Bridge. It was
completely destroyed, but you could still read the fading signs to
the “terrace bar”, the “sauna” and “hairdresser.” Heki
was its longest-standing guest and when you didn't see him there, you
could hear him padding around in the rubble. Whether from
brain-damage, resignation or because he'd had his fill of war, Heki
was a passive dog with neither bark nor bite. Buildings don’t need
their ghosts. They are ghosts. I often peered inside this hotel and
the many other shelled homes, offices and shops and felt a tangible
memory, a feeling that if you touched the bullet holes and
plaster-shattered walls, you would discover the truth of the
building, its happiness and sadness. The Second World War spy
warning - “walls have ears” could have had added to it that
“walls have memories.” If that is true of buildings, how much
more is it true of dogs. Read more about the 'Dogs of War' in 'Left Field'.
"Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced" - James Baldwin
Showing posts with label Bosnia Hercegovina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bosnia Hercegovina. Show all posts
Tuesday, 30 June 2015
Monday, 15 June 2015
Rock band visits La Torre de Dalt
My
'birthday' week in Spain takes on an even more Dali-ish quality when
Oha tells me that Dubioza Kolektiv are coming round for tea. They
have been gigging in Spain and are 30 kilometres away on the road
from Barcelona to France. They are on a European tour which ends at
the Glastonbury Festival on 28 June. (Shangri
La and Glade stages for those going there this year). DB are returning to the UK on 21 November to perform at the 100
Club. They are known for their fresh take on hip-hop, reggae, dub, rock and
Bosnian folklore. The concept of the band has been to show
the rest of the world that life in the Balkans exists outside the overused media
stereotypes. Many of DB's
lyrics revolve around themes of peace, understanding and tolerance,
alongside criticism of nationalism and injustice. They are known in Bosnia for
lending
support to the country's first grass-roots civil society group “Dosta!”
and
their
album release party for album “Firma Ilegal” took place in front
of the Bosnian Parliament, in a powerful statement against government
corruption. Oha had been in DB as percussionist and singer and I was at their performance at the Arena stadium in Belgrade in April 2014
when he
made a guest performance which you can see here. Check
out the last five minutes.
It
was great to meet up again with Senad Šuta, who I knew when we were
both at the Pavarotti Music Centre, Adis, Amir, Vedran, Brano,
Armin, Mario and others. Yesterday
they
arrived with
a Carhu
single malt
whisky as a present
for
me.
Thank you guys. Hey, the bottle is empty
this morning! Want
to join me at the 100 Club in November? More about Bosnia and music in 'Left Field'
PIC: Dubioza Kolektiv with me at La Torre de Dalt, 15 June 2015: Teo, Oha and Senad Šuta are 2nd, 3rd and 4th from left
Saturday, 23 May 2015
Dogs of War
Torni didn't make any noise. He knew he mustn't bark. The enemy were metres away. He moved forward carefully, turning his head every few paces to make sure everyone was all right. He never stopped wagging his tail. This breed of mountain dog thrive in the cold. His owners followed him carefully. He seemed to know where the mines were. After twenty hours, they reached the top of a mountain where there was a large tent for escaping refugees. This was the “road” to Sarajevo and they passed soldiers, pack mules, old and young people - all on the move to greater safety. No vehicles could travel on these tracks and horses and mules were used to carry humans and their cargoes. A few weeks before Torni and his family made the journey a horse had become so wearied by his load that it was said that he deliberately jumped over the side of a cliff to his death two hundreds metres below. Read more about Torni in 'Left Field'.
Thursday, 21 May 2015
A Bosnian 1905?
On 5 February 2014 anger
over factory closures in
Tuzla, Bosnia Hercegovina, spilled into the streets. Two days later, demonstrations spread to
Sarajevo, Mostar and other towns and cities. In
their wake, People's
Plenums were set up to express and give organisational strength
to this new movement. This
was taking place in a country where more
than one in four of the workforce is
without work and the average wage for those with work is less than
400 euros a month. By contrast, politicians
get 3000 euros a month. The Guardian estimated that 60% of the
country's money is spent on the political
set-up and 40% on its people. In
April 2014 I was doing
research for 'Left Field' and
visited Zagreb, Ljubljana,
Mostar
and Belgrade. A month later, many of the roads I had travelled on were
under water, hit by the worst floods for centuries. An already bad
situation was now made much worse. While in Mostar, I
addressed a Plenum demonstration. (Start video at 1:20 if you don't speak the language). In
retrospect, it may seem to have been over-optimistic to have aligned
the Bosnian movement with the political undercurrents at work in
other parts of Europe. Time and the people will decide.
Photo. Tuzla Plenum session, 'Freedom is My Nation'.
Photo. Tuzla Plenum session, 'Freedom is My Nation'.
Tuesday, 21 April 2015
My Mostar 'sons'
Oha’s enthusiasm for people was marked by equal enthusiasm for music. When he heard a performance he liked, his face would break into a smile as he grabbed the nearest person to him to hug. I have even watched while he embraced a loudspeaker. (Oha is Orhan Maslo)
Read more about them here:
Sunday, 19 April 2015
children and war
“Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter” Martin Luther King Jnr.
Here are two pics from children in war (Spain in the 1930s and Bosnia Hercegovina 60 years later) - separated by time and place, but united in their suffering.
I hope "Left Field" breaks a lot of silences.
Wednesday, 25 February 2015
Brian Eno film
Brian Eno interviewed me on film about 'Left Field'. This will be available on YouTube tomorrow evening (Friday 27th Feb, UK time) Watch this space
Unbound's video about the book is here:
http://unbound.co.uk/books/left-field
Brian Eno at the Pavarotti Music Centre, 1998
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)






