Showing posts with label Bosnia Hercegovina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bosnia Hercegovina. Show all posts

Tuesday, 30 June 2015

Dogs of War

When war broke out, many animal owners were unable to care for their pets and they ended up in the street. Other owners were killed or had fled the country and their dogs, cats and other pets were abandoned. Those that survived best were the mongrels. In the aftermath of war, you never saw pedigree dogs: the French poodles, Chihuahuas and Lhasa Apsos. They were war’s early victims, too far away from their ancestral stock to live alone for very long, too slow and small to gain advantage in the race for scraps of food. During and after the war, the police organized hunts to cull the survivors, but, many years later, the crafty and the hardy still roamed the streets of the towns and cities. Some of them were heroes. One of these in Mostar, Heki, was a footsore mongrel who hung about in the old town begging food from cafés and passers-by. He had four separate pieces of shrapnel in his body, one of them lodged in his brain. He limped around and somehow survived. His home was the Ruza; the shelled ruins of a tourist hotel constructed in the 1970’s, across a tributary that falls into the Neretva River close to the Old Bridge. It was completely destroyed, but you could still read the fading signs to the “terrace bar”, the “sauna” and “hairdresser.” Heki was its longest-standing guest and when you didn't see him there, you could hear him padding around in the rubble. Whether from brain-damage, resignation or because he'd had his fill of war, Heki was a passive dog with neither bark nor bite. Buildings don’t need their ghosts. They are ghosts. I often peered inside this hotel and the many other shelled homes, offices and shops and felt a tangible memory, a feeling that if you touched the bullet holes and plaster-shattered walls, you would discover the truth of the building, its happiness and sadness. The Second World War spy warning - “walls have ears” could have had added to it that “walls have memories.” If that is true of buildings, how much more is it true of dogs. Read more about the 'Dogs of War' in 'Left Field'. 

Monday, 15 June 2015

Rock band visits La Torre de Dalt


My 'birthday' week in Spain takes on an even more Dali-ish quality when Oha tells me that Dubioza Kolektiv are coming round for tea. They have been gigging in Spain and are 30 kilometres away on the road from Barcelona to France. They are on a European tour which ends at the Glastonbury Festival on 28 June. (Shangri La and Glade stages for those going there this year). DB are returning to the UK on 21 November to perform at the 100 Club. They are known for their fresh take on hip-hop, reggae, dub, rock and Bosnian folklore. The concept of the band has been to show the rest of the world that life in the Balkans exists outside the overused media stereotypes. Many of DB's lyrics revolve around themes of peace, understanding and tolerance, alongside criticism of nationalism and injustice. They are known in Bosnia for lending support to the country's first grass-roots civil society group Dosta!” and their album release party for album “Firma Ilegal” took place in front of the Bosnian Parliament, in a powerful statement against government corruption. Oha had been in DB as percussionist and singer and I was at their performance at the Arena stadium in Belgrade in April 2014 when he made a guest performance which you can see here. Check out the last five minutes. It was great to meet up again with Senad Šuta, who I knew when we were both at the Pavarotti Music Centre, Adis, Amir, Vedran, Brano, Armin, Mario and others. Yesterday they arrived with a Carhu single malt whisky as a present for me. Thank you guys. Hey, the bottle is empty this morning! Want to join me at the 100 Club in November? More about Bosnia and music in 'Left Field'

PIC: Dubioza Kolektiv with me at La Torre de Dalt, 15 June 2015: Teo, Oha and Senad Šuta  are 2nd, 3rd and 4th from left

Saturday, 23 May 2015

Dogs of War


Torni didn't make any noise. He knew he mustn't bark. The enemy were metres away. He moved forward carefully, turning his head every few paces to make sure everyone was all right. He never stopped wagging his tail. This breed of mountain dog thrive in the cold. His owners followed him carefully. He seemed to know where the mines were. After twenty hours, they reached the top of a mountain where there was a large tent for escaping refugees. This was the “road” to Sarajevo and they passed soldiers, pack mules, old and young people - all on the move to greater safety. No vehicles could travel on these tracks and horses and mules were used to carry humans and their cargoes. A few weeks before Torni and his family made the journey a horse had become so wearied by his load that it was said that he deliberately jumped over the side of a cliff to his death two hundreds metres below. Read more about Torni in 'Left Field'.


Thursday, 21 May 2015

A Bosnian 1905?

On 5 February 2014 anger over factory closures in Tuzla, Bosnia Hercegovina, spilled into the streets. Two days later, demonstrations spread to Sarajevo, Mostar and other towns and cities. In their wake, People's Plenums were set up to express and give organisational strength to this new movement. This was taking place in a country where more than one in four of the workforce is without work and the average wage for those with work is less than 400 euros a month. By contrast, politicians get 3000 euros a month. The Guardian estimated that 60% of the country's money is spent on the political set-up and 40% on its people. In April 2014 I was doing research for 'Left Field' and visited Zagreb, Ljubljana, Mostar and Belgrade. A month later, many of the roads I had travelled on were under water, hit by the worst floods for centuries. An already bad situation was now made much worse. While in Mostar, I addressed a Plenum demonstration. (Start video at 1:20 if you don't speak the language). In retrospect, it may seem to have been over-optimistic to have aligned the Bosnian movement with the political undercurrents at work in other parts of Europe. Time and the people will decide.

Photo. Tuzla Plenum session, 'Freedom is My Nation'.

Tuesday, 21 April 2015

My Mostar 'sons'

Oha’s enthusiasm for people was marked by equal enthusiasm for music. When he heard a performance he liked, his face would break into a smile as he grabbed the nearest person to him to hug. I have even watched while he embraced a loudspeaker. (Oha is Orhan Maslo)


Teo wanted nothing more than to return to pre-war days when no one took any notice of religious or ethnic differences. He was one of the first to take his guitar into the communities of his former enemies.  (Teo is Teo Krilic)


Read more about them here:


Sunday, 19 April 2015

children and war


 “Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter” Martin Luther King Jnr.

Here are two pics from children in war (Spain in the 1930s and Bosnia Hercegovina 60 years later) - separated by time and place, but united in their suffering.

I hope "Left Field" breaks a lot of silences.

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Brian Eno film



Brian Eno interviewed me on film about 'Left Field'. This will be available on YouTube tomorrow evening (Friday 27th Feb, UK time) Watch this space

Unbound's video about the book is here:

http://unbound.co.uk/books/left-field


Brian Eno at the Pavarotti Music Centre, 1998